Tuesday, May 9, 2017

Recipes from the 2017 HSCG conference: Gigawhite & Vitamin C moisturizer with Aristoflex AVC - the water phase

We took a look at the oil phase and emulsifier in this recipe yesterday. Let's take a look at the water phase today. Because I can only use around 5% oils in this recipe, it's even more important to choose our water phase carefully to include ingredients that will hydrate our skin.

I’m adding resveratrol in this recipe at 0.5% to help with hyperpigmentation and signs of photoaging. It has a ton of great qualities: It's a very good anti-oxidant and free radical scavenger, as well as being a great anti-inflammatory. It's advertised as reducing he signs of aging by ameliorating the effects of skin damage caused by UVB rays. And it is showing promise for diabetic wound care as it's shown some anti-bacterial and anti-fungal activity.

Related posts:
Cosmeceuticals: Resveratrol
Aristoflex AVC: A light lotion with resveratrol, panthenol, and allantoin

To include resveratrol, we need to first mix it with a solvent like propylene glycol. I've chosen to use propanediol 1,3 as the solvent in this recipe. Mix the two together first, then add to the product.

What's up with propanediol 1,3? It's a naturally derived substitute for propylene glycol that can be used at up to 20% in your water phase. It's a humectant that draws water from the atmosphere to your skin to offer hydration. It has a 9 to 12 month shelf life once opened.

I can't use hydrolyzed proteins with Aristoflex AVC as it will ruin the viscosity, so I'm using sea kelp bioferment as the film former and oil free emollient. We generally use it at 2% to 5%, but I find the lower amount is enough for this recipe.

If you've been around this blog for even a short period of time, you'll know I love allantoin! This water soluble powder is a fantastic skin protectant that softens skin (it's a keratolytic, meaning it causes the keratin to soften), causes rapid cell regeneration and proliferation, and is approved by the FDA to temporarily prevent and protect chafed, chapped, cracked, or windburned skin by speeding up the natural processes of the skin and increasing the water content. It can be derived from comfrey root, aloe vera, and urine. I know there's some debate about whether to add this to the heated water phase or the cool down phase, and I suggest using at no more than 0.5% in slightly warmed water. Why? Because it seems to dissolve better in warmed water and it avoids those awful shards that can come when the ingredient crystallizes as it cools.

You also know I'm a big fan of panthenol. What can it do? It improves stratum corneum hydration, reduces redness and inflammation, increases wound healing by stimulating skin epithelialization, improves skin barrier mechanism repair, mitigates itching and soothes irritation, and behaves as a humectant. You don't need much to get these effects - 2% is more than enough.

You can find it as a powder or liquid. The powder should be used in the heated water phase, the liquid in the cool down phase.

For my preservative, I'm choosing to use 0.5% liquid Germall Plus. It's my go-to as it's a broad spectrum preservative that works well with all kinds of different emulsifiers and at different pH levels.

Links to buy these ingredients at Lotioncrafter:
Resveratrol
Propanediol 1,3
Sea kelp bioferment
Allantoin
dl-Panthenol
Liquid Germall Plus 

As a note, none of these links are affiliate links and I do not receive any sort of compensation if you buy something from Lotioncrafter. I provide them as Jen was so kind to supply all the ingredients for the conference at great expense to her company, and this is my way of saying thanks for spending so much time to make sure my presentation was the best it could be! 

As this post is also getting too long - yeah, I know, I talk too much! - join me tomorrow as we take a look at the active ingredient, Gigawhite, and the final recipe.

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